Launch!

The big day finally arrived. The boats were pretty much ready. No masts yet, so we are launching the world's largest 4 person row boats.

The launch was a 3 step process : get the boat out of the shop, get the boat to the ramp, and finally get the boat into the water.

Here is the first step. Just like the Egyptians. Except our long tubes are lightweight aluminum. But the boat is still heavy. The timbers the sled were made of are getting pretty rotten as well, so they tended to dig in rather than roll. It took several of us to get the boat lined up with the exit.


But we finally did.

Dale is a good friend of the shop. He is a mason and therefore has a lot of big boy toys, including a tractor, a farm winch, and a really big truck. Here he is pulling the boat along the muddy parking lot.

This worked for awhile, but it turns out what worked best was simply tying the rope around the hitch on the back of his truck and towing it to the ramp.

Meanwhile, a few folks have been busy at the ramp (it is low tide) getting the slides ready for the sled. They greased it up with 3 gallons of Crisco.

Here she is, all ready for launch. See the gudgeons (the bronze pieces which hold the rudder) in the back? We were up until 2am the night before installing them (and finishing the rudder) . . . we have yet to put the rudder on.


Of course, one of the many cool things about this boat is that there are 2 of them! Now we just wait for the tides. Check out the 8 monster oars which new apprentices Jim and Doug made for us the last few weeks.


As you have already noticed, it was rainy. Really rainy. But we still had a crowd of about 100 show up for the launch. Maybe it was the free chowder.

It wasn't all about the twins either. We had 5 boats to launch. 1st up was Pat with his new Susan Skiff.


Next was Curtis and Martin with the A&R Tender


Then Kat and Phil with their Lawley Tender

And finally it was our turn.

OK, funny story now. See the sled underneath the boat in this picture?

In theory, the rope attached to this sled keeps it on the slide. Well, the theory doesn't work in practice if the rope breaks. We ended up taking the sled with us. We were wondering why the other boat was rowing circles around us.

Nevertheless, we were able to get her to the dock.

Pre Launch Post

Tomorrow is the launch. Looking back it has been nearly a year since lofting. Time flies when you're having fun. But this is the pre launch post, so here is what we've been up to lately.

After finishing the outside of the boat we were able to start building up the insides, starting with the sole. Here it is all laid out and oiled up.

And here it is installed. Enough room for a dance party.

I got to make the knees. The forward and aft thwarts are well attached and notched in to prevent any rotation. The forward center thwart, however, is just hanging there. Since it is going to support a mast it needs to be beefed up quite a bit. We do this with knees. Here is the starting material. 3 months ago, these were tree roots.

The roots are of Eastern larch. In boatbuilding terms, this is hackmatack. It is prized for its strength around a curve, since we follow the grain of the knee to build the shapes that go in the boat. Here are the results. (You'll get to see them installed a few more pictures hence).

Next, the side seating, which for some bizarre reason is called the sheets. We can use the thwart riser to support them on the outside, but we need something to support them on the inside. This means one more long stick of wood.

Ta da! This is the morning after the 18 hour sheet installation marathon.

Nothing left but the painting now.

And some oar locks.

Next post. . . launch day.

Oh, what the hell. Here’s a preview.

Finishing the Outside of the Boat

Hang on, this is a long post. . .

As promised, the lead pour.

I started out by building the mold which you can see in the foreground of this picture. It looks pretty easy, but it isn't rectangular. The sides have a curve in them to match the keel, and the top is angled in 3 sections. It is built up in layers (just like microchips!) of 2X4s, then a wall of masonite is screwed in, and finally, ceramic paper is glued to the masonite with something called waterglass (Sodium Silicate for the nerds). All this to protect the wood from exploding when the hot lead hits it.


The next step was to acquire the lead. We went to a salvage operation in Portland. We got 3300 lbs of lead for a cool $2200. We rented one of those cargo vans from Enterprise and the salvage dudes just forklifted 2 pallets and a barrel full of lead into the back. We had to unload by hand. I was surprised how much room lead it takes to fill up our relatively small molds.



Finally, the melt set up. Basically, a big old tub with some propane burners below. You can see it behind the pile of lead.

It took 6 hours to melt our 1600 lbs of lead. We took out about 100 lbs of slag, which is just the dirt that rises to the surface. Once everything is good in the tub, it is time to open the valve. But that doesn't really start the flow. Usually there is a hold up somewhere in the pipe, so you have to get out the flame thrower and heat it up. Also in this picture you can see how we built up earth around the mold the support it.

It was a hot days work. Lead melts at 621 degrees F, and I was standing right next to that tub pretty much all day. Add a little lead, let it melt, take of slag, repeat. But finally, it started pouring. The molten lead is beautiful. It is shiny and silver.

Next day we dig her out.

Next I take off the mold (including that daggerboard cut out in the middle), clean it up, roll her into the shop, fit it to the boat, find it doesn't fit, cut out some more of the oak keel (repeat last 3 steps about 5 times) and then finally tar it up on top as a filler and bolt it to the boat.


The angles on top are what caused us the most trouble. They were off a little, so we had to keep shaving the sides to eliminate the gap at the top. The width of the keel was right on, but it had a bend to her... probably from that time we dropped it on the cart. No problem! One of our instructors, Brian, had us set the keel on it's side and then took a few carefully placed smacks with a sledge hammer.

Close but not quite . . .

The picture above shows the keel completed, but what about the gaps to the front and back? These areas need to be filled to finish the shape of the boat. These filler pieces are called deadwood. Here is a shot of my layout for them.

The wood is 2" thick locust, which is becoming a common substitute for white oak. The patterns are shown on the left. The smaller is for the front piece. Only one cut out is needed for the front, as the filler is never more than 2" thick. However, the larger pattern is for the back, which is 5" thick on the aft part of the boat, so I'll have to cut out 3 of these pieces and laminate them together.

The deadwood is cut out to the pattern above (which follows the shape of the keel). Then I had to cut out the daggerboard holes (remember, there are 3 of them on the boat and only 1 goes through the lead). Next was fitting the pieces front to back and tapering them down (the front of the piece was about 1" thinner than the back) . Finally, drilling them out and installing them. The longest bolt was 19" (All our bolts are Silicon Bronze which sells for about $6 per foot for 3/8" rod. Fastenings are a huge part of the cost of these boats).

Here Dillon is putting the final touches on the rear deadwood piece. To orient you, the far left is actually the stem which is half lapped to the keel and the deadwood. The oak keel is to the right of the triangle on top and the deadwood is below. In the distance you can see where the keel and deadwood run into the lead. You can see the 1/2 laps to the left, right below Dylan's head.

And here is a bad shot of the front piece (kind of in the middle, in front of the lead), but I included it since you can see that the outside of the boat is now complete! A little planing down to fair out the bumps, some paint, and she'll be ready for the water.

In the meantime, they launched the Herreshoff 12 1/2. She is named Gimlet, which is just a fabulous name for a boat, especially this cocktail friendly daysailer.




Our turn in a couple weeks! Launch is scheduled for June 19th.

Thwarted

Sorry it has been so long. I sort of forgot to take the camera to the shop for a few weeks.

I also finally figured out why it was so difficult to post a comment. I didn't realize you had to sign in to leave a comment, since whenever I tried to leave a comment, I was already signed in. Anyhow, I turned off that requirement. Comment away!

The daggerboard trunks are installed, which allowed us to fit the thwarts, the seats that go across the boat. Not only do they provide a cozy place to sit, they also tie the boat together, so we were able to (finally) get rid of the crossspals (those temporary 2X4s that held the boat's shape and constantly got in the way). Well, almost all of them. There is still one up forward which we need to keep the boat from tipping over. We also got in the sole timbers, which will provide a place to attach the sole (the floor or deck).


Here is a close up of the daggerboard trunk / thwart joint. You can see how the thwart is notched for the trunk, making a bomber fit. The hole in the middle is for the daggerboard. The thwarts are made of 2X12 spruce. Josh and I spent about an hour picking thru piles of dimensional hardware to find the best 10 planks. Turns out we were just in time. Now the black flies are horrendous out at the lumber yard.


The fore and aft thwarts are 23" wide and are centered on the trunks. The center two thwarts (see 1st picture) are a little more complicated since they need to act as mast partners. The masts are attached to the boat in 2 places, the bottom, called the mast step, and a spot about 30" above called a mast partner. On an open boat like ours, thwarts usually act as mast partners. On decked boats, the deck is the mast partner. We'll have to tie the center daggerboard trunk into both of these smaller thwarts. It will involve big knees! Stay tuned.

Here is a good shot of the sole timbers. Ignore the piece of plywood which is just temporary flooring. Eventually, we will put in a douglas fir sole. But the observant long time reader might recognize the wheel from the boat flip.

In other news, we have received plans for the keel. Since these boats are being built traditionally as plank on frame, as opposed to the more modern plywood construction used on the original build, they are going to be heavier. So we get the keel design 6 weeks before launch day, rather than with the original plans. Nothing like just in time design. We are going to need a 1500 lb keel. The first step is to make a cut out in the oak keel to accomodate it.

Before. . . 6" thick white oak at the bottom of the boat.


After. . . an 8 foot cutout. Actually, this is only about 1/2 of the cut out. It will take us about 3 person-days to cut and clean up this void. All I could think about while working on it was how much easier it would have been if we had the keel plan while this was just a piece of oak sitting on sawhorses rather than 2 feet off the ground underneath a large boat.

Next post . . . the lead pour.

It is spring time in Maine and that means getting boats on the water. Since I'm doing the racing thing, I recruited my potential crew to fix up the shop J-24. Not a wooden boat, but still fun to sail. I wish I had a before/after shot, but here she is after a new paint job.


The small boats are also coming along nicely.

And finally, I've finished up the 1/2 model and the wall-hung cabinet project.

Long Sticks and Big Boxes

The first order of business these past weeks was to find out where the sole (the floor for the non-initiated) of the boat will be. This is the straight line in the round boat. It is quite easy to see where it goes in the 2 dimensional profile view, yet another thing altogether to find it in the 3-D bowl that is our boat.

Not impossible though. Unfortunately I don't have any pictures of the process, but it involved a long straightedge, a few levels, a frame sample, a plumb bob, and similar triangle theory. Long story short, we were able to mark a line on the frames.

After that, we installed the long sticks. In the picture below, the 3 sticks/side near the bottom are the bilge stringers and those near the top are the seat risers. Their first function is, along with the keel (very bottom) and inwale (very top), to provide fore to aft stability in the boat. Of course, the seat risers also provide a place to put the seats and the bilge stringers actually run along the sole, and will provide a place to screw in the sole timbers (think of the sole as a deck, and the sole timbers the joists). A straight line in a round boat isn't really straight.


One thing I learned in this step is the impossibility of doing this on your own. Getting the bilge stringers to twist into place took all 4 of us. I suppose you could have built some big clamping scaffolding around the boat, but that would have taken days.

Next step is to install the daggerboard trunks. This is the first place the "specialness" of this boat rears its head. Most boats would have one centerboard or daggerboard trunk. This one will have 3, so the people using it can change the way the boat sails. From this view, you can see the 3 spots where the daggerboards will go.


The daggerboard trunk is just a very heavily built box. Since we are going to put a hole in the bottom of the boat, the box needs to keep the water out. You start with the bedlogs, which fit between the floor timbers.


Next come the head ledgers, which are notched into the floor timbers.


So far so good. . .


Now to fit the panels to complete the box.


If you look closely you can see all the pre-drilled holes. This trunk is only fit temporarily since we still need to drill the hole in the bottom of the boat.

The hole actually takes the shape of the daggerboard, which is a foil. After we did the drilling, it took me several hours to shape it (the keel is 6 inches thick) with a big chisel and a tiny saw (so it could fit in the hole, which is 1/4" wide at one end and 2" wide at its widest).

And here it is! You'll just have to trust me, but the 6 foot daggerboard is resting on the floor of the shop.

The box will be cut off to be level with the seat risers, so the seats can run from the side of the boat to the middle. Maybe next week.

Internet geek note : I have the little feedjit thing on this page to tell me where people are that click on my blog. Also, If someone does a search and then clicks on the blog, I get told what they searched for. My favorite so far . . . "for want of a rivet a plank was lost." I did it myself. . . my page was #4 for that search!

New stuff every day now!

Maybe we don't get to do something new everyday, but after months of planking, it is nice to be able to move from one job to the next fairly quickly.

The last couple weeks have been a whirlwind. While a couple of the guys were finishing up and installing the floor timbers...

I got to spend some time out in the spring weather cutting up the stock for the inwales. These are the pieces that run the full length of the boat, inside, at the sheer. The stock was a piece of oak, 26' long, 3" thick, and about 12" wide at the bottom and 6" wide at the top. I was able to get 4 pieces out of it. This process involved a very long straightedge, a bunch of clamps, a huge circular saw, and a no small amount of patience. Once I got a sort of rectangular shape out of it, it took 3 of us to muscle the thing through the planer and table saw. The fun part was we didn't even know if they would be long enough. We knew it would require about 26', but since the inwale fits in a big curve, the easiest way to find out is just stick a piece of wood in there and see if it fits. Turns out they were big enough. Here is a picture of the excess that we cut off.


The inwale is the oak just to the right of my hand. It follows the top of the boat all the way to the front.

After installing these guys, I spent a day with a camber gauge... just a 10 foot long piece of wood with a slight curve cut out of it. You put this across the boat and shave down the inwale and sheer so they match that nice curve. (you can see in the picture above why this is necessary) This would be really important if, say, a deck were going on the boat (which it's not), but is still mildly important just so the boat looks good. A straight line at the sheer would be easier, but uglier.

I also worked on the breasthook in the stern. I didn't get to make it, but once we got the inwales fit to it, there was a lot of shaping to do.

Here are the current status shots. . .


Our instructor, Kevin, finally gave us a good answer to "what kind of boats are these?" I always have the convoluted answer... Nigel Irons design, 28' open boat, 3 daggerboards and multiple mast steps for sail training, blah, blah, blah. But now that we can see the open boat like this, it's obvious. . . A giant Peapod! A Peapod is a classic maine fishing boat and now a popular recreational boat. There was a picture of one on a prior post. Double ended, beamy, pretty, and about 14' long. Of course, it is not a perfect comparison, but now I at least have a short answer.

Next step is to find a straight line (or, more precisely, a plane) in this curved boat. We need to give the boat her soul, er, I mean, sole.

Side note. . . we took a field trip to the maritime measuem in Bath. Very interesting. It was built right on the spot where the last great wooden schooners were built (1850 - 1920). We're talking 350' on deck sort of boats, used to haul coal up and down the coastline. Nothing romantic about building wooden boats back in those days. Best part of the trip, though, was we got access to their boat sheds, which are not for public access simply because the floors are mud, and to get to the second floor you have to climb a ladder. Well, they let us in. This picture shows maybe a tenth of the boats in the building.